Everything after that is finessing. They dont necessarily need to be read in order but the more you know the better prepared you will be to decide which sweater construction method is best for you. By increasing evenly in all four sections of the sweater, you're creating raglans at a 45 angle to the neck . I do have a question that Im wondering if you could help with. At the underarm, a few stitches are cast on to give ease to the shape of the torso. Neither of these is carved in stone, and as you'll read below, it's rare that all sizes will require the same shaping rates. Knitting on an Airplane and Other Travel Tips for Makers, Why You Shouldn't Buy a Knitter Yarn as a Gift. My reason for contacting you is just to let you know that the percentages for the Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you. 3) Each human body follows or ignores a different set of geometrical principles: no two bodies are the same. This is your desired front neck depth. However when I think about looking at the sweater as a whole it seems like on one side you would want stitches to lean left and on one side you would want stitches to lean right to make it symmetrical. If you have an odd number of stitches, the formula is: While continuing to follow raglan shaping and stitch pattern: Row 1 (RS): Work in pattern to C sts before the marker / marked stitch, turn. Ex: If your trim will be 1 of ribbing, add 1 to this depth. Now we see why the sweater might poof out just above the breasts or right at the armpit. Short rows keep us from knitting stitches. This seemed like a perfect opportunity to talk a bit about different types of seamless construction as there are 4 different seamless methods used in Dovestone Hills. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.Jean Ritchey. Right after the bust, we decrease dramatically in circumference, then we dont change very much in the mid chest, and then our circumference narrows rapidly from the shoulder to the chest. (8 sts inc at raglans, 2 at front neck, per inc row) The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes. 5 Top-Down Sweater Styles Explained | Interweave Hi, everyone! I wanted to make sure it was perfect for you, and I'm grateful for her sharp eye and clear voice. Thank you so much for this information. UFO to WIP: Can This Crochet or Knitting Project Be Saved? You'll want to add no more than about 5/8" right beneath the collar, and if you need to make up extra length you can work some short rows in the middle of the back too. The most basic would be a kfb (knit into the front and back of the stitch). In contrast to yoke depth, which is the total depth of the top part of the sweater, raglan depth is simply the rows you work from the cast-on to the underarm. However, it doesnt really give the most stable underarm area. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. Finished bust measurement pre-wet blocking of 38.5 inches, and post blocking of 41 inches. The needle size does not enter into calculation of the garment pattern. Copy the reflected apex to the main sheet and join the dots. Add a few rows to the yoke to make it deeper, or decrease fewer times in the sleeve to make the shoulders wider. Download Knitting Plus or Easy Seamless Sweaters to Knit! I will say that this method can produce extra fabric in the underarms if your full bust point is low, which is why I'm working on that other post! Because the raglan lines draw the eye in from the curves of the bust, theyre quite flattering on curvy womenemphasizing the bust while creating a look of feminine narrowness across the shoulders. Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method. If a raglan is worked with plenty of positive ease, however, these problems are alleviated. Important: Make a test square in the pattern stitch in The raglan sweater can be knit either top down or bottom up. Add a few extra raglan increases after you've split for the arms and body. It is used to suggest a smaller needle size for the ribbing. To do this neatly, you cast-on the underarm stitches and then join up the back of your body and work on to the other side. its accuracy or the outcome of its use. The defining characteristics of Raglan sweaters is that they have no shoulder seam. Fundamentally, a raglan is a sweater that is shaped between the underarm and the neck with four columns of decreases that go from the front and back of each armhole up to the neck. Because the shoulders and armholes are not well defined on a raglan sweater, there tends to be a little extra fabric in the underarm area. One wonderful thing about raglan sweaters is that due to the method of increasing it is fairly simple to integrate patterns into the yoke and body of the sweater. The top down version is entirely seamless which makes it very accessible for beginner sweater knitters. Lisa's List: 6 Armholes and How to Make them Work for Your Body Beginning at the neck, the number of stitches on the front (s), back, and sleeves increase at regular intervals along these lines. Additionally the increases allow for great creativity to highlight the style lines of the raglan seam. I have a difficult time picking up the neckline where the front increases have been. This might be a good time to talk about the goal of short rows. As pointed out by April K., this percentage method works best for adult proportions. Raglan. You can find more info about Anne Marie and the services she offers here. To help you apply this to your own project, I've created a downloadable PDF worksheet - you can get that here: I have noticed that neckline shaping is most often omitted when theres colorwork, and knitting (and designing) a colorwork sweater is easiest when worked from the bottom up. k2tog - knit 2 sts together. On the right-hand side, you can see the bracket enclosing the whole yoke depth, which is made up of the raglan depth and half of the shoulder width. Day 5 Pattern - click here for a PDF of sizes XS through XXL! You start with full raglan increases and then move on to alternating body only rows with full raglan increases so that everything fits right at the bottom of the yoke. *Membership cannot be purchased with Gift Cards. Note - if you have a hump on your back you can solve that with short rows - but they'll extend past the raglan lines so that they don't create that sharp little bubble. As near as I can tell, that's happening because the designer has heard that they need to add short rows to the back but they don't really understand why or how. Even when you adjust armhole depth on a sweater pattern and recalculate the raglan increases or decreases, youre going to see a smooth(ish) diagonal line between body and sleeves. I debated changing the Raglan increases because I generally prefer to have the increase line extend all the way down below the armpit. May I ask, when knitting a raglan top down and adding short rows to raise the back neck, do you do these once you are already knitting in the round, or do you do a few back and forth rows? Another option is to eliminate more than two stitches in your first rate A row, which has the added benefit of creating an even more smooth curve. E.g. I am in a happy place. Somewhat Stretchy : Raglan pattern This sweater goes by formula (you will find percentages in parentheses), and up to the underarm is identical with my #4 Brooks and #8 Raglan models. If youve been reading this series, all of this information should sound familiar. This can mean that you will be limited to yarn choices that include some structure and elasticity themselves, such as wool or wool blends, and plied yarn. Being a word person, I got to wondering about the origin of the word raglan, so I did a little research. If youd like to make a deeper neckline by binding off, you have so many choices! the top. Both sleeve cap and yoke are truncated triangles. Short rows keep us from knitting stitches. Typically patterns suggest a Backwards Loop Cast-On. Raglan shaping is usually worked from the top down and involves a long, slanted seam running from the neck to the underarm. Raglans have no shoulder seam; the expanding sleeve cap becomes the shoulder of the garment. Sweater Construction: The Many Ways to Knit a Sweater For a raglan to fit correctly, you would typically increase/decrease on each side of the body (and at the front and back) and on each side of the sleeve on every right-side row or every other round if working in the round. Lily Chin said it first, and since her expert advice inspired and enhanced the series, she must be right! For a raglan to fit well, the yoke has to be deep enough for the rise of your shoulder (our shoulders are not flat lines across, but rise from the tip of the shoulder to the inside point of the neck), your armhole, and some wearing ease (usually about 1). If you were here I would give you a huge hug! There's one special thing about raglan sweaters that I see overlooked in so many designs. Lightweight Pullover by Hannah Fettig, Sweater Construction Methods: Set-In Sleeves, Sweater Construction Methods: Dolman Style, Sweater Construction Methods: Circular Yoke, Sweater Construction Methods: Contiguous Set-In Sleeve, Sweater Construction Methods: Saddle Shoulder. Remember - we are avoiding knitting front stitches, and finishing the sleeves and back of the shoulder as normal. Or be a bit Sometimes, then, well see necklines that work well in the middle and larger sizes, but because the shoulder gets more narrow as sizes get smaller, the smallest sizes dont have adequate depth. If this is your first sweater I recommend starting with the Tilda pattern. :), I am currently knitting your Travelers End pattern and I am loving the cable pattern. Row 2 (WS): DS, work in pattern on WS to C sts before the marker / marked stitch, turn. If you havent already, take a minute to check out the other posts in this series. Increases are made around four fixed points. The sleeve cap has to stretch over the outer joint of the shoulder and across the top of the shoulder to the neckline, requiring a flat plane of fabric to curve over an angled area. Might be easiest starting with a pattern? Hey, I just came across this while making a search on raglan. Those stitches sit right across the top of the neck, and contribute to front and back neck depth. Crafty Confessions: Do You Make a Gauge Swatch? I love the neckline, too. In Melissa Wherles Sigma Tee, she uses dropped stitches along the raglan sleeve shaping. The shaping of the sleeve must match the front and back shaping so that all the pieces fit together properly. Raglan lost his right arm in the Battle of Waterloo and some have speculated that the raglan style was developed by his tailor to fit better on his armless side than a traditional shoulder and sleeve. About the type of fit. This is awesome! The best feature of this method is that you don't need to change your needle size or yarn to IMO. Tell us, in the comments! When you get down to the torso of the sweater it can easily be shaped and fitted any way you like it. The body and sleeves can be worked separately in pieces that are seamed together or the body and sleeves can be worked in the round to the armholes, then joined and worked in a single piece to the neck. Why? Its very rare that a raglan wont need front neck shaping - the shoulder width needs to be about six inches wide for that to work. Please confirm you want to block this member. Improv: Basic pattern for a top-down seamless sweater Wauw - I'm really impressed and glad to find another excel-fan. For some body shapes, this works just fine, BUT on the smaller and larger end of the spectrum, you can have problems. NOTE: The photos and methodology described in this post were both updated in August 2016. Kniterator, the top-down raglan knitting pattern calculator Please note: The pattern is generated so that you can use any size knitting needle with any weight yarn. Tilda by Kazekobo () If rows used in shaping is MORE rows than you calculated when you worked out desired neck depth, youll need to either increase the number of bottom neck stitches or work more rate A rows. The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes. To illustrate this, here are two swatches, both worked with the exact same shaping rate as suggested above. PS - many thanks to Anne Marie Hart for technical editing support on this post! Raglan Definition & Meaning - Merriam-Webster For the hips an a-line shape should work well. If all of this is still sounding a bit much to take on by yourself, Im always adding patterns to my Teachable Workshops. You can add an inch or two here easily, and the whole sweater will be wider in the front only. However you can still get a trim fit with the addition of waist or bust shaping. I have included mostly simple sweaters using the raglan sweater construction. The test square should be made by You must enter a numeric value in all text boxes. Sara Dudek similarly acknowledged her appreciation of such sweaters when she dove deeply into design considerations for knitters and crocheters. One of the disadvantages of sweaters constructed seamlessly is the lack of structure provided by seams. If youd like to make a deeper neckline by binding off, you have so many choices! If you opt for the top down construction of this style of sweater it can easily be tried on by slipping it off the needle and onto some waste yarn or multiple circular needles. This ones for designers and knitters - lets talk about what makes a raglan click! Knitting is an art, but the engineering-part of my brain is constantly questioning why so many designs can't just be explained as formulas. When I think about it I think Im just following and exaggerating the way the individual stitches lean so it wouldnt matter- when I get to the next sleeve I would do them in the same order. That means the formula is: ((Stitches in front neck bottom neck stitches) divided by two) 1 = stitches to shape out on each side. For each raglan curve, reflect it in its 'base': copy the three points defining a raglan curve onto a spare piece of tissue paper, carefully labelling the neckline and the centre front points; turn it over, then align the neckline and centre front points up with the main sheet. I'm going to be extremely direct here, and if you think I'm wrong - write back and tell me. If you want to join me virtually for a 12-week knitting adventure as we mastergarment fit and modification, then my signature masterclass is waiting for you here. This is the shoulder width, and from the top of the shoulder, half the width will fall the front and half to the back. You can do this by adding short rows across the back of the neck. So when I pop in the measurements there is NO WAY that thing fits Tuesday Tip: How to Measure Armhole Depth - Patty Lyons The sleeve cap extends all the way to the neck edge. that which is calculated by this method. Raglan shaping is usually worked from the top down and involves a long, slanted seam running from the neck to the underarm. In a word, geometry. sweater, but you need to know something about what you are doing. The sleeve cap is a triangle that mirrors the shape of the armhole, with the top of the sleeve (the neck edge) measuring 0 to 4 (0 to 10 cm); plus sizes fit best with at least 1 (2.5 cm) remaining at the top of the sleeve. Thanks again and do keep designing and sharing. You can work those short rows right up against each other the same way you can work one decrease every row when you bind off. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with full charts, schematics, and waist shaping formula for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Heres the formula: Stitches to shape out / 2 = stitches used in shaping rate A (round this so its an even number), Youll eliminate the remaining stitches one per turn (work right up to the double stitch, then turn your work), Stitches to shape out stitches used in shaping rate A = stitches used in shaping rate B, Rows used in shaping: Rate A + (Rate B *2). The final stitches are then cast-on across the underarm. Bottoms Up Raglan is presented in one size only for now. Hello Carol, This is so helpful. The more complicated a design gets, the more challenging it is to make into a formula, and so many of the designs coming out these days are pretty complicated. The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. These workshops are designed to be there every step of the way as you work on your chosen project. There's a Pullover or a Hat for the Rebirth KAL! Knitting is about 90% (don't quote me on that %, it's an estimate) math, and that's what Excel is great at, so it's pretty natural, I think, to use them together. be aware that this pattern is a percentage approximation. If youre not a raglan-lover, decide whether your lack of affection stems from this sweaters armhole shaping and how it works for your unique figure, or if you simply need to tweak fit as you make your raglans. This decorative seam continues down into the a-line body and forms the focus of interest for the sweater. and markers. Best wishes and keep going with this unique, understandable and helpful content. The shaping of the sweater is based on raglan styling from the top down. Divide shoulder width by 2 for starting neck depth. The extended sleeve cap, which matches the yoke in depth and number of rows, has a diagonal tension (a line of stress in the fabric) that cuts across the outer arm and shoulder and can be uncomfortable for women with larger upper arms or broad shoulders.
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